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Valentino Resort 2018 in New York City

Valentino Resort 2018 held on May 23, 2017 in New York City.

In today’s superb Valentino show, Pierpaolo Piccioli took up that most American of references: hip-hop.

Cultural exploration has been the project at Valentino since the beginning of Piccioli and his former partner Maria Grazia Chiuri’s tenure at the house, but more often than not it found them investigating their Italian roots. Back in January, Piccioli held his first solo preseason show for the label at the Beekman hotel, citing Ellis Island and the idea of immigration as his starting points. Today, again, he was in New York, but with a more modern reference that resulted in a more vital lineup. He said he fell for Baz Luhrmann’s Netflix show The Get Down. Connected to the street and erupting with color, it pushed the Valentino vocabulary forward, out of the realm of the inviolably precious and into the world of the everyday.

To be sure, the tracksuit has gotten its fair share of attention from the high fashion world—we have reached peak athleisure. But cut in technical jersey, or, better, hammered silk in brilliant shades of emerald, ruby, and pink, Piccioli’s tracksuits looked fairly irresistible. Sewn from four narrow panels of that gorgeous hammered silk, his pants swished above be-feathered flip-flops or studded shower shoes. There were also pleated track skirts, short and long zip-front track dresses with contrast piping, and extrapolations on the sporty theme that found Piccioli layering the house’s signature sheer A-line midi dresses over color-blocked leotards. Fresh.

Beyond the high-low hip-hop references, Piccioli touched on army fatigues and washed and faded denim, embroidering the former with pre-Columbian motifs and deconstructing the latter with split waistbands and sleeves. He reunited with Zandra Rhodes on a lipstick motif that decorated a tiny romper and an oversize bomber. And among the many embroidered evening stunners, a streamlined column in hot pink silk velvet radiated desirability. On Sunday night, as Piccioli prepped for today’s show, he spoke about diversity and “finding the harmony in difference.” Fashion isn’t going to solve the world’s problems (and fashion still has its own problem with model diversity), but Piccioli’s instinct is right on. So was this collection.

Article By Nicole Phelps from

Valentino Resort 2018 in New York City Valentino Resort 2018 in New York City Reviewed by Abby Zacky on Saturday, May 27, 2017 Rating: 5
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